Jessner's Peel Ingredients
The Jessner's peel is one of our most popular at-home peels. It offers versatile results by combining various ingredients. Jessner's peels contain salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol. These ingredients help to reduce fine lines and acne and improve skin tone and texture. In addition, the Jessner's peel can combat sun damage, rosacea, age spots and shallow scarring.
In this article, we'll break down the ingredients of the Jessner's peel to give you a better understanding of how it works and why.
But first, let's talk about the precautions.
1. Because chemical peels dissolve the upper layer of skin cells, your skin will be much more sensitive. Even if you do not see any pronounced redness or peeling, it's important to use sunscreen or other forms of sun protection each time you're exposed to UV light after a peel. This includes exposure to UV rays on cloudy days or during the winter months.
2. Although our chemical peels are overall mild and suited for at-home use, they are designed to damage your skin in a controlled manner. Such damage can trigger a viral cold sore outbreak. Therefore, we do not recommend chemical peels if you have a history of cold sores.
3. Similarly, if you are immune impaired due to diabetes or cancer, undergoing radiation therapy, taking corticosteroids or don’t have a functioning spleen, we strongly advise against the use of a chemical peel. Although the damage to your skin from at-home peels is minor, your immune system plays a vital role in the repairs needed to recover from this procedure.
4. If you are prone to atypical scarring, a chemical peel is likely not for you. Pronounced and raised scars such as keloids occur more often in persons with dark skin, putting Africans, Asians and Latinos at higher risk. Additionally, skin discoloration is generally more likely to occur from chemical peels in people of these ethnicities.
Although your skin color doesn't automatically exclude you from a chemical peel, we strongly recommend that you don’t begin peeling without a spot test.
A spot test is strongly recommended for all users to avoid potential side effects during or after peeling. Try the peel first in a less noticeable area by following the included instructions, then wait one week. If your results are normal for your patch test, you'll likely experience normal results on your face.
So why does the Jessner's peel work as well as it does? We already mentioned that it combines three powerful ingredients to yield these optimal results. Let's break down these ingredients and learn more about them individually.
A Jessner's peel contains 14 percent salicylic acid, an acid that falls into the beta hydroxy group. You'll oftentimes also see this group referred to as "BHA." This group contains a wide variety of acids that have various applications; in cosmetics, these acids are useful because of their ability to penetrate the pores of your skin, where they can dissolve the upper layer of skin cells efficiently. This is due to the fact that beta (meaning two) hydroxy acids have two carbon atoms. By contrast, alpha hydroxy acids only contain one carbon atom, which keeps them on the surface of your skin.
Beta hydroxy acids are milder than their alpha counterparts, and do not kill bacteria or have an effect on sebum production. The purpose of salicylic acid in your chemical peel is simply to soften keratin (the glue that holds cells together). This makes BHA peels an excellent solution for dry and scaly skin caused by conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and seborrheic dermatitis. In addition, salicylic acid also prevents the clogging of pores.
Lactic acid is salicylic acid's counterpart because it is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). As we already mentioned, AHAs remain on the surface of the skin, making them excellent exfoliants. This group also includes glycolic acid, the smallest, and therefore a much more powerful, AHA molecule.
Although lactic acids don't have the ability to penetrate skin in the same way BHAs can, this group of acids is generally stronger. However, the potency of AHAs range widely. You can find many types of alpha hydroxy acids right in your own home. Try honey (gluconic acid), papaya (papain), pineapples (bromelain) or citrus fruit (citric acid) like oranges when creating an at-home skincare regimen.
When paired with salicylic acid, we only need 14 percent lactic acid to give this chemical peel the ability to penetrate deeply and exfoliate efficiently.
Structurally speaking, resorcinol is a compound similar to phenol, also known as carbolic acid. However, it's applications are very different. Although the phenolic acid group does include salicylic acid, neither resorcinol nor salicylic acid function like their phenol relative.
As we already mentioned, salicylic acid breaks up skin's "glue" by softening keratin. Resorcinol works similarly, and is often found in skincare treatments to combat acne, eczema and other dermatological issues. This ingredient also contains antiseptic properties.
Fourteen percent resorcinol completes the trifecta of Jessner's chemical peel ingredients.
If you’ve never used an at-home chemical peel, you may want to start off with a milder solution to help ease the process. Take our chemical peels quiz to find out which other chemical peels might be best suited to your skin tone and experience level.